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For centuries, southern Puerto Rico was a world apart
from the north, a port for trade with the Caribbean's Lesser Antilles
and an agricultural region dedicated to sugarcane and coffee.
Today it is known for picturesque coastlines and bird-rich mangrove
forests. Nicknamed Porta Caribe, it attracts visitors with its
off-the-beaten-track charm.
The southern coastline along Route 3 connecting the towns of Patillas
and Arroyo has a yesteryear beauty about it, with overgrown coconut
palms, modest homes and semi-arid greenery. This is one of the
least-traveled seascapes in Puerto Rico, wonderfully out-of-the-way.
To reach the region from San Juan (an hour and a half drive), take
Expressway 52 to Caguas, Highway 30 to Humacao, and Expressway 53 to
Yabucoa. Drive around the coast on Road 901 and continue south on
Route 3 to Patillas and Arroyo. Arroyo, found at the end of Road 753,
was once a major trade partner with the then-Danish islands to the
southeast. Its picturesque flag-decked seaside promenade has
been restored (along with a nearby lighthouse), and old buildings fan
out from the waterfront. Nearby is the station for Tren del Sur, the
Southern Train, a former sugarcane train. Currently, the train is
closed while the tracks are being repaired. For centuries, Arroyo was
the port and Guayama, to the west on Route 3. small towns soon give way
to Ponce, a stately, historic city surrounded by several major attractions.
Beyond, the coastline is rimmed with mangroves and bordered by
low-lying hills draped in scrub forest. A large bay, a beach, a river
and a nearby town all share the same name, Guayanilla, of Taino
Indian origin. Sugarcane production extended to here in
centuries past, and old plantations and chimneys remain from those
days. There is also a modern petroleum refinery, partially in use.
Local fishermen make their living as their ancestors did, and a
park in town commemorates fishermen lost at sea. West of
Guayanilla is the town of Yauco. In this region Tainos and Spaniards
signed a treaty of friendship in the early 1500s. In the 19th
century, Yauco was renowned as a bustling coffee town. Beans from
farms in the central moun tains were transported here to be
processed and shipped to European cities. Every February the town
celebrates the end of the coffee harvest with its National Coffee
Festival. Two historic homes near the central plaza house small
museums — the Franceschi Art Center and the Amaury Veni) House
of Music. In the hills to the north, the Rio Loco passes through
rest, where there are campsites and recreational areas in aigged
forest ter rain. Nearby, the Lake
reservoir is the site of a wildlife refuge. |
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